Saturday in Paris

Saturday 19 October:

Today I had a macarons class at 3pm with Lefoodist. And I wanted to tour the Palais Garnier. We tried in 2015 but it was closed for tours. We tried in 2017 but the auditorium was dark. I saw a performance there in 2018. But 2019 (third time’s the charm) would be it! Husband was not enthused.

It was a rainy, overcast morning. The Metro deposited us a few blocks away. We had our Orsay tickets and got the 4E discount which almost paid for the audio guide. 

The entrance foyer was bathed in blue lights, which was weird until I remembered FIAC was going on. There were pink lights by the grotto(?) and big gold tires on the grand staircase. The audio guide was very good and easy to follow. 

The auditorium was open! We were able to go into a box like the one I'd sat in for the opera in 2018. 

The Chagall ceiling. It shouldn't work but it really does! It is stunning!

We followed the audioguide through the rest of the rooms available for viewing. It was fun to see these slightly less opulent spaces before getting to the grand ballroom.

The grand ballroom is over the top ornate. It is truly breathtaking!

The balcony that runs along the grand ballroom overlooks gorgeous Heissmann buildings.

It was a dreary day.

The library was hidden away but it holds treasures from the history of the Opera Garnier. There were also costumes displayed on this level.

One last picture and then we exited.

We spend about an hour and a half there. It’s such a gorgeous place, and that Chagall ceiling, oh my! Husband agreed it was well-worth touring.

We’d heard from another friend that her cancer was back and wanted to get her a metal from the Chapelle de-la-Medaille-Miraculeuse but were running low on time to get there then to Lefoodist (rue du Cardinal Lemoine) for my class. We decided husband would go there on his own. After a quick lunch near Galleries Lafayette (baguette sandwiches, yum), husband delivered me to Lefoodist about 5 minutes before the macarons class started.

It was a 3 hour long class, partly because it takes time for the macarons to rest then bake. I enjoyed it overall but it felt rushed. Having to share duties with a stranger was not an optimal learning environment for me. The resulting macarons were good—because the instructor finished the batters. They emailed the recipe but it’s basic—none of the additional instructions that were shown in the class were included—and from it, I won’t be able to recreate the macarons. Bottom line: Enjoyed but wouldn’t do it again.

Chocolate ganache

Vanilla buttercream

Pistachio buttercream

Weighing everything is important

Stiff peaks for the meringue

My blue batter

First piping experience

Husband had gone to the Minerals museum and had a couple of drinks nearby. He met me at Lefoodist and we walked around the area for a few minutes, stopping briefly at Eglise St-Nicolas-du-Chardonett.

He told me he did not go to the Miraculous Metal Chapel. So we rushed there, knowing it closed at 7pm. We made it into the gift shop with seconds to spare (they literally closed the door behind us). We bought our metals then sat in the Chapel in contemplation with all the nuns for a few minutes. We left before Vespers and the closing ceremony (whatever that’s called). (No photos)

We wandered around the area a little before sitting at Les Mouettes for a couple of drinks.

We decided to head back to Passy to have dinner, pack, and get ready to leave on Sunday.

We chose Aux Cocottes again. It was early (8pm) so the restaurant was quiet with several tables reserved. I got the fish again (delicious!) and husband got their version of beef bourguignon which he loved. We were served by the chef, always a nice touch. We enjoyed this restaurant and sure hope it is a success because we’d definitely return when we’re in Paris.

And just like that, 7 nights in Paris were done. It was a wonderful trip, even the weather cooperated! If I have my way, we’ll be back in 2020 and every year in perpetuity! 

Au revoir.

Friday in Paris

Friday 18 October:

We had a 130pm lunch reservation at Le Meurice Alain Ducasse (our favorite splurge). We got up a little later than planned and headed to the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-la-Medaille-Miraculeuse (Chapel of the Miraculous Metal) because we have a few loved ones battling health issues. It was quietly bustling in the chapel. I’m a non-believer but truly appreciate that others have strong faith. It was gratifying to see the reverence and faith on display in this pretty chapel. No one was obnoxious, which could so easily happen.

We stopped in the gift shop, got the metals and explanatory pamphlets, and headed out. We spent a few minutes at La Grande Epicerie de Paris for cans of sardines and foie gras, and made a quick walk through Le Bon Marche because we’d never been in there before (won’t be back, either--too expensive! and not as pretty as Galleries Lafayette, in my opinion).

We didn’t have time to walk back to Le Meurice or to tour Musee Maillol, which had been the plan, so took the Metro to Solferino. We came out to the most gorgeous skies and incredible view of Sacre Couer (and fond memories of having taken the Metro to/from this stop every day for a week in 2017).

We walked down these pretty streets (I just love walking in Paris) and took the Passerelle Leopold Sedar Senghor (stupid locks) across the river into the Tuileries.

There were modern art displays in the gardens, and loads of people wandering about, smiling, playing, snapping pictures. A delightful scene!

We arrived at Le Meurice Alain Ducasse and were immediately pleased. This was our fourth time at this restaurant and each time improves upon the last. The dining room is just gorgeous with sumptuous, Versailles-like décor; the chairs are super comfortable Saarinen Tulips; the service is professional but not overbearing; the food is delicious; and this year, the wine pairing was a welcome addition. We loved everything about this experience and will definitely continue this tradition!

After lunch, we decided to go to the Orsay. It’s my favorite museum and we generally go at least once every time we’re in Paris but skipped last year (only revisited the Marmottan). We were not planning to go this year but we read about the changes to the Post-Impressionist rooms and decided to check it out. At 4pm, there was no line for tickets and we were in the Degas at the Opera exhibit around 415pm. It was crowded in there. We didn’t feel it was as well done as the Toulouse Latrec exhibit but we enjoyed it.

Next we went up to the Impressionists gallery, which I simply adore. All of my favorites, except one, were there, with few people to mess up my enjoyment. Missing was L’Evasion de Rochefort by Manet. I believe it’s somewhere in the Orsay and will seek it next visit. The new Post-Impressionist rooms were pretty crowded but much better than their previous location. Going at the end of the day works well for us and is a natural pairing with lunch Le Meurice (I do love our little traditions).

We took the RER to St. Michel Notre Dame and wandered by the cathedral before grabbing a spot in the bar at Au Bougnat. We happily drank and munched there for a few hours before heading back to Passy (from the Hotel de Ville Metro stop so I could gape at that beautiful edifice).

It was a fabulous day in Paris!