Saturday in Paris

Saturday 19 October:

Today I had a macarons class at 3pm with Lefoodist. And I wanted to tour the Palais Garnier. We tried in 2015 but it was closed for tours. We tried in 2017 but the auditorium was dark. I saw a performance there in 2018. But 2019 (third time’s the charm) would be it! Husband was not enthused.

It was a rainy, overcast morning. The Metro deposited us a few blocks away. We had our Orsay tickets and got the 4E discount which almost paid for the audio guide. 

The entrance foyer was bathed in blue lights, which was weird until I remembered FIAC was going on. There were pink lights by the grotto(?) and big gold tires on the grand staircase. The audio guide was very good and easy to follow. 

The auditorium was open! We were able to go into a box like the one I'd sat in for the opera in 2018. 

The Chagall ceiling. It shouldn't work but it really does! It is stunning!

We followed the audioguide through the rest of the rooms available for viewing. It was fun to see these slightly less opulent spaces before getting to the grand ballroom.

The grand ballroom is over the top ornate. It is truly breathtaking!

The balcony that runs along the grand ballroom overlooks gorgeous Heissmann buildings.

It was a dreary day.

The library was hidden away but it holds treasures from the history of the Opera Garnier. There were also costumes displayed on this level.

One last picture and then we exited.

We spend about an hour and a half there. It’s such a gorgeous place, and that Chagall ceiling, oh my! Husband agreed it was well-worth touring.

We’d heard from another friend that her cancer was back and wanted to get her a metal from the Chapelle de-la-Medaille-Miraculeuse but were running low on time to get there then to Lefoodist (rue du Cardinal Lemoine) for my class. We decided husband would go there on his own. After a quick lunch near Galleries Lafayette (baguette sandwiches, yum), husband delivered me to Lefoodist about 5 minutes before the macarons class started.

It was a 3 hour long class, partly because it takes time for the macarons to rest then bake. I enjoyed it overall but it felt rushed. Having to share duties with a stranger was not an optimal learning environment for me. The resulting macarons were good—because the instructor finished the batters. They emailed the recipe but it’s basic—none of the additional instructions that were shown in the class were included—and from it, I won’t be able to recreate the macarons. Bottom line: Enjoyed but wouldn’t do it again.

Chocolate ganache

Vanilla buttercream

Pistachio buttercream

Weighing everything is important

Stiff peaks for the meringue

My blue batter

First piping experience

Husband had gone to the Minerals museum and had a couple of drinks nearby. He met me at Lefoodist and we walked around the area for a few minutes, stopping briefly at Eglise St-Nicolas-du-Chardonett.

He told me he did not go to the Miraculous Metal Chapel. So we rushed there, knowing it closed at 7pm. We made it into the gift shop with seconds to spare (they literally closed the door behind us). We bought our metals then sat in the Chapel in contemplation with all the nuns for a few minutes. We left before Vespers and the closing ceremony (whatever that’s called). (No photos)

We wandered around the area a little before sitting at Les Mouettes for a couple of drinks.

We decided to head back to Passy to have dinner, pack, and get ready to leave on Sunday.

We chose Aux Cocottes again. It was early (8pm) so the restaurant was quiet with several tables reserved. I got the fish again (delicious!) and husband got their version of beef bourguignon which he loved. We were served by the chef, always a nice touch. We enjoyed this restaurant and sure hope it is a success because we’d definitely return when we’re in Paris.

And just like that, 7 nights in Paris were done. It was a wonderful trip, even the weather cooperated! If I have my way, we’ll be back in 2020 and every year in perpetuity! 

Au revoir.